The following is a brief breakdown of ratings based on the Yosemite Decimal System (from wikipedia) up to the point when you begin subdividing what is traditionally considered roped climbing.
- Class 1: Walking with a low chance of injury.
- Class 2: Simple scrambling, with the possibility of occasional use of the hands. Little potential danger is encountered.
- Class 3: Scrambling with increased exposure. A rope can be carried but is usually not required. Falls are not always fatal.
- Class 4: Simple climbing, with exposure. A rope is often used. Natural protection can be easily found. Falls may well be fatal.
- Class 5: Technical free climbing involving rope, belaying, and other protection hardware for safety. Un-roped falls can result in severe injury or death.
Seems like a pretty straight forward explanation, that is until you tell people you went scrambling. Often the initiated climber looks at you rather strange. For many, a scramble is the unwanted portion needed to access the more desirable 5th class rock climb or it is an unfortunate low angle break in what would otherwise be a classic, 5-star route. For the non-rock climber it seems to mean you strayed off the hiking trail and up some dirty hillside.
 |
| Looking south from North Thunder Mountain |
The degree of difficulty and the amount of risk you opt for is entirely your decision, as is the case with all climbing really. My only recommendation is to bring what you know and a healthy sense of adventure.
The following is a list of routes that I ticked off my list last year which I highly recommend. With the right attitude I think you will find them intrinsically enjoyable and great preparation for bigger goals.
- The Jagged Edge (5.4 ) - A very pleasant surprise in Ogden! Great position on the mountain and fun. The cruxy sections have good rock quality and are just spicy enough to keep it exciting.
- Geurts Ridge (5.5, II) - The west facing spine of Mount Olympus that keeps coming and coming with sections of exposure and the company of goats. It finishes on the South Summit . . .and then a knee rattling descent down the normal trail.
- Hypodermic Needle (Steep Snow, IV) - Off of North Thunder Mountain, this is one of the prized back country descents for skiers. Timing is everything to catch conditions right since it is not a rock scramble but rather a snow climb so crampons and axes may prove handy. I included it in the list because it embodied my overall goal. This is the most beautiful location I have visited in the Wasatch.
- South Ridge (5.4, II) - This is the prominent ridge on Mount Superior just across the street from Snowbird. It is another one desired by local ski mountaineers but in the summer it is a very pleasant scramble with sections of good exposure and access to several major summits.
- Mineral Slabs (5.2, II) - Beautiful, remote feeling within a stones throw of BCC road (literally). Remarkable low angle rock and stunning views. Our descent had something to be desired but that can be improved on.
A couple similar routes I did in the previous year:
- Stairs Gulch (Moderate Snow, IV) - Bring your best route finding instincts and a smile. We glissaded Bonkers into Broads Fork for the descent.
- Devils Castle Traverse (4th Class, II) - Setting is everything here. It almost makes you forget the chossy rock.
Rock climbing guide books often only briefly mention many of these options. The Internet provides the following useful resources.
I'd add the east face of snow basin and the banana chute to the list, fun climbs that aren't difficult at all.
ReplyDeleteVery nice suggestions to the list. Last year we climbed James Garrett's new route on the east side of Mt. Ogden, The Gray Slabs (5.9). I enjoyed that but since we roped up for a few of the pitches I omitted it from the list. I really need to do the Banana Chute in true snow conditions. I have only bushwacked up that in summer.
ReplyDeleteAnother route I would like to add to this list is Kamp's Ridge, although to me it seemed like a more serious endeavour than many of the others. I call it more serious because I felt that the ropes came in very handy for complete pitches, at least the way we it up high.
ReplyDelete